Skip navigation

Category Archives: Tuning

Hey guys, yet again I must apologize for not posting any updates in such a long time. I have been busy! Part ONE of Tempest got completed, then I got super busy with school..

For the Results of Project Tempest See HERE

Next up, I have opened up a new business venue selling performance scooter parts! What I hope sets me apart is the fact that everything I sell will be researched to be provide the best possible results for everyone’s scooter modding adventures 🙂

Come checkout the new biz ScootSpecs HERE

Currently carrying a selection of Ruima DIO parts, so if you got a 94+ Elite let me know and I can hook you up!

I will try to update on individual projects as much as I can, but I am very busy with a full time school course load on top of work.

As of now I have 8 (yes EIGHT) scooters with two planned to sell, and 2 planned for major build projects. So as always, keep checking back and stay tuned 8)

Got any project requests? Hit me up at


Tempest. That is what I’m calling this bike. In the end I hope it will be fitting 😉

Here’s an update on the frame. Got back from Robbie at RLM, an awesome machinist and more who builds custom drag motorcycles, motors, you name it.

I trusted him to do the fancy work that I could only dream, but lacked the skills to produce. The results were just what the doctor ordered. Still need to map and spec out shock mount, but its in the works.


Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket

I’ve decided to go a different route with my bumblebee and cherry elites and swap in gears for better acceleration, instead of top speed.

Yellow Elite going from 8.44:1  secondary helical to >>> 9.2:1 secondary ruima straight cuts

Red Elite going from 7.4:1 malossi primary straight cut to >>> 8.44 secondary helical


Ran into some snags, had to swap gear covers as well and found ’01 has single bearing cover, while the ’98 has dual bearings!

Also note spacing washer used in place of stock plastic gear on secondary shaft. This washer is same as a Jog style large spline crank variator bushing washer, can purchase from for those interested. It is important to have so you do not have metal on metal contact between the steel gears and aluminum outer trans cover.

Don’t forget to apply brake greace on drum contact points to avoid squeeks down the road.

Lastly added Ruima vented drilled bells on both for better bite and cooling.


First off I’d like to send a special thank you to those that have donated! Every little bit helps and I truly appreciate it.

On to some updates

SO I was reading my favorite  car mags, and got  some inspiration for a new project.. (Projectcar Magazine is straight badass! I’m an avid reader, its a great mag for the budget builders and great for ideas, for any vehicles. And the August issue of hondatuning has some sick honda builds from oldschool to new that really made me crave more Honda!)
Photobucket Photobucket

Next thing I know I’m browsing craigslist and NEXT day..

A fresh lookin Honda Spree sits in my garage! 🙂

This is the same scooter that I first started out with and its nice to own one again. But this time around, I got some wild plans and will be calling this project: SpreeTypeR. Sure she may not look like much now, but stay tuned and see the transformation 😉 I’ll be starting off  by refurbing back to stock to get a baseline, and then the real fun begins!

Next up, some goodies from Tommy aka Limp1144 over at Check him out for your Elite needs, he’s bringing in top notch parts at low buck prices!

9.1:1 ratio final drive Ruima straight cut secondary gears and vented drilled Ruima clutch bell housings.


I’ll be doing some gear swapping and retuning on both Elites in hopes of hitting the drag strip yet again, with some interesting goals in sight 8)  Keep an eye out for progress on these bad boys


Here is some VERY useful CVT transmission tuning info for the Elites and other cvt based scooters, posted by member “Arnadanoob” from, much thanks bradah!

Also a vid of a kymco variator vs a stock one from an Elite S, very similar to an OKO performance variator showing you the difference between them


Tech info:

The variator rollers (weights) are the key to tuning in this manner during the initial take off. If you use less weight in the rollers, it’s more than likely that you’re using a softer center spring. If you did make the mistake of using lighter weights with too strong a center spring, you’ll have a whiny engine revving up really high, great for steep hills that won’t have any top end speed. Conversely if you made the mistake of using too much weight at the front pulley and too soft a spring, you’ll lug, bog, and have very dull power and your pipe will never see the airflow it needs to fill up, pressurizing the pipe’s internals to create the necessary backpressure to keep more of the fresh intake charge from blowing out the exhaust port. A lower rev pipe fills up quickly which means it doesn’t need higher rpms to put the bike into the power zone, like a V8 Typhoon pipe, this is why you can get away with heavier weights. PG Long is a very high rev pipe, needs a lot of airflow before the pipe pressurizes before backpressure can be formed to hold more of the intake charge in the cylinder before being blown out, this is why it needs less weights to help keep the crank rpms higher.

Tuning the rear section (rear pulley and center spring) determines rate of acceleration (thus how hard you pull while you increase speed in mph/kph) and also the rate in which it gets back into the power zone when you punch it from 1/8 throttle to 1/2 or 3/4 throttle, even WOT. If you think about this in car terms, the idea is that when you accelerate, you’re always in the meat of the power zone, but when you’re cruising you might be below it at lower rpms, but as soon as you punch it, it should kick you back into the power zone instantly without delay and pull hard (only limited to your gearing ratio).

There’s a lot of mathematics behind tuning bikes correctly, even in Hawaii we have a ton of guys running super lightweight trans setups with any combination of (lathe lightened Keli pullies), aluminum driveface, lightened mag, super light clutch and lightweight clutch bell without understanding the effects and applications of each. If you intend on riding long distances at a steady speed, there’s absolutely no reason to use any lightweight trans parts as it’ll actually hurt you in the long run.

For example, when a bike is in motion, it undergoes changes to its level of kinetic and potential energy. Lightweight moving trans components will not be able to store as much energy while it is spinning and will want to slow down at the earliest possible convenience. This means if you went with lightweight everything versus someone who’s using stock driveface, unlightened Keli pulley, stock clutch bell, heavy/stock clutch, your engine will be working harder to maintain that high speed. Parts with larger mass will be able to store energy better, which means like a bowling ball that starts to roll down the street, won’t be looking to slow down nearly as easily as a volleyball when it starts to encounter resistance. The bowling ball’s real problem is getting up to speed. In mopeds, the lighter components often help for the shorter rides which involves more sharp acceleration from 1 corner to the next where your rpms vary a lot, it does not help those who hold it wide open for miles and miles, in fact it will hurt your mileage and will wear out your motor faster than without those lightweight parts. The total mass (weight in crude terms) of the moving trans parts is perhaps the most overlooked, underestimated, often misunderstood portion of the bike. A bike setup that almost mandates the need for lightweight trans parts are those who are using chamber pipes, mostly due to its powerful “spikey” power curve which often results in a huge kick when the pipe’s powerband is reached.

This skews off a little but I wanted to add in why clutch springs (not to be confused for the center spring) acts differently in heavy, medium and light clutches. A heavy clutch has moving parts that are higher in mass, which means when it spins it’s going to want to open up and touch the clutch bell surface more eagerly than a clutch using ultra light moving parts. This means you could use a green polini clutch spring in a heavy and light clutch and it’ll seem like the clutch is engaging sooner with the heavy clutch than the light clutch.


Welcome to my first ever scooter tuning blog! My name is Yan, also known as burnt_toast on many scooter forums, and in this blog I will be discussing and reflecting on my previous and current experiences with modern 2-stroke scooters, tuning, fixing and modifying them to travel at warp speeds (or as close to as humanly possible 😉

As time goes on I will be adding lots of info that has been scattered in many previous postings, as well as blogging about all my newest and latest scooter projects! All right here on

I would love to hear your feedback, comments and suggestions about layout content or anything else you’d like to see here at Scooter Toast. You can reach me directly by email at

Stay tuned, check back often, and please subscribe* to receive all the newest updates! 🙂

*Easiest way to subscribe: click “All posts” under RSS feeds on bottom of page, then choose an option that’s easiest for you, ex Live Bookmarks if you’re a Firefox user, etc