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To test and tune my overhauled Elite, I’ve added a Trailtech Vapor gauge assembly which displays realtime rpm and cylinder head temp, as well as records max values of both.

Very useful stuff for fine tuning which I plan on doing soon, here’s a vid to show yall what I’m talkin bout

… (click link to view)…


After only briefly keeping my yellow and black bee colored Elite at what I called “Stage 1” (See previous post HERE). I decided 50cc just wasn’t cutting it for me.

With all performance parts ready on the shelf I tore down and within a weekend got it to my “Stage 2” spec which now includes:

  • Polini Contessa 72cc bore, on stock crank
  • New Honda OEM top end bearing
  • JDM Dio head bolts
  • YMS Exhaust
  • CT Manifold
  • 24mm OKO carburetor (128, 42,  1clip lean, 1.5 out A/F)
  • custom fit UNI open filter
  • FIAMM horn (need to hardwire)
  • SEF Ramp plate (awesome mod!)
  • OKO variator Pulley (8g net rollers)
  • RPM Clutch bell (off until new clutch arrives)
  • 8.44:1 secondary trans gears (MUCH better than 7.4 ratio)
  • 2k center in S trans
  • 2k Jog grab springs
  • Shinko S1 copy tires
  • plus Aesthetic changes from Stage1

Tuning this new setup was quite a pain and mostly the reason I didn’t post any updates. With latest jet settings mentioned she runs much better and just perfect for cruising. Full tune to come soon with new gauges 🙂


Seeing a lack of performance from my cherry red SR, I decided a teardown was in order:

decarbon’ed my corsa bore, piston and pg long, flushed case, custom 50cc head (polini head was stripped) with new custom base & head gaskets

this is after 5,000 solid semi-daily riden miles

HAULS BALLS NOW! nice to be fast again 🙂


It’s been a long time coming, but I’ve finally added some of my favorite links to the “Links and Resources” page. Check em out, lots of useful stuff for everybody.

As far as current scooter projects:

I am currently working on tuning my Stage2 parts on my ’98 Elite S aka Bumblebee. It’s gone from 50cc to 72cc with a Polini Contessa, ct manifold, 24mm OKO carb and YMS exhaust and running much nicer ratio gearing at 8.44:1  I’ve taken a few snaps as this one comes along and will post up soon.

My aging 01 Elite SR with the ministroked Polini Corsa is under the knife, after almost 5000 modded miles its steadily lost some performance and I hope to gain it back after some decarbonization and engine adjustments.

The other scooters sit waiting for action, running pretty low on funds nowadays, AND if anyone would like to donate to help fund parts you can do so with the DONATE tab in the top right, I and the scooters would much appreciate it 🙂

Till next time, ride safe out there 8)

First off to those that check my page out every so often, let me appologize about taking to long to post updates. I get busy, and sometimes just plain lazy 😛

I’m gonna do my best to add updates on a set basis, maybe every second sunday or something as well as update the other “useful” pages, so stay tuned!

To this day to count, I’ve owned a total of ELEVEN scooters 😯 and ALL have been (originally) 50cc 2-strokes, at about #7 I was really looking to go 4-stroke but then found a JDM Yamaha Jog and got sucked back in..

Well not anymore! I am happy to say I’ve ventured into the 4-stroke world and picked up my first 150cc scooter woohoo!

Before it I had debated on just getting a motorcycle but am just a sucker for good gas mileage and concealed storage, things a 150 scoot should be all about 😉

Besides motorcycles are stoopid anyway.. juss kiddin! I love cafe’d style bikes and hope to own one someday, street fighter look is nice too. But for now a radically style jet fighter/transformer strada eurojet rx150i will do just fine! :mrgreen:

Not sure of my plans for this one yet, but here she is getting ready for tarping in my backyard, comeback later for any updates and enjoy


(click pics for larger image)


Here is some VERY useful CVT transmission tuning info for the Elites and other cvt based scooters, posted by member “Arnadanoob” from, much thanks bradah!

Also a vid of a kymco variator vs a stock one from an Elite S, very similar to an OKO performance variator showing you the difference between them


Tech info:

The variator rollers (weights) are the key to tuning in this manner during the initial take off. If you use less weight in the rollers, it’s more than likely that you’re using a softer center spring. If you did make the mistake of using lighter weights with too strong a center spring, you’ll have a whiny engine revving up really high, great for steep hills that won’t have any top end speed. Conversely if you made the mistake of using too much weight at the front pulley and too soft a spring, you’ll lug, bog, and have very dull power and your pipe will never see the airflow it needs to fill up, pressurizing the pipe’s internals to create the necessary backpressure to keep more of the fresh intake charge from blowing out the exhaust port. A lower rev pipe fills up quickly which means it doesn’t need higher rpms to put the bike into the power zone, like a V8 Typhoon pipe, this is why you can get away with heavier weights. PG Long is a very high rev pipe, needs a lot of airflow before the pipe pressurizes before backpressure can be formed to hold more of the intake charge in the cylinder before being blown out, this is why it needs less weights to help keep the crank rpms higher.

Tuning the rear section (rear pulley and center spring) determines rate of acceleration (thus how hard you pull while you increase speed in mph/kph) and also the rate in which it gets back into the power zone when you punch it from 1/8 throttle to 1/2 or 3/4 throttle, even WOT. If you think about this in car terms, the idea is that when you accelerate, you’re always in the meat of the power zone, but when you’re cruising you might be below it at lower rpms, but as soon as you punch it, it should kick you back into the power zone instantly without delay and pull hard (only limited to your gearing ratio).

There’s a lot of mathematics behind tuning bikes correctly, even in Hawaii we have a ton of guys running super lightweight trans setups with any combination of (lathe lightened Keli pullies), aluminum driveface, lightened mag, super light clutch and lightweight clutch bell without understanding the effects and applications of each. If you intend on riding long distances at a steady speed, there’s absolutely no reason to use any lightweight trans parts as it’ll actually hurt you in the long run.

For example, when a bike is in motion, it undergoes changes to its level of kinetic and potential energy. Lightweight moving trans components will not be able to store as much energy while it is spinning and will want to slow down at the earliest possible convenience. This means if you went with lightweight everything versus someone who’s using stock driveface, unlightened Keli pulley, stock clutch bell, heavy/stock clutch, your engine will be working harder to maintain that high speed. Parts with larger mass will be able to store energy better, which means like a bowling ball that starts to roll down the street, won’t be looking to slow down nearly as easily as a volleyball when it starts to encounter resistance. The bowling ball’s real problem is getting up to speed. In mopeds, the lighter components often help for the shorter rides which involves more sharp acceleration from 1 corner to the next where your rpms vary a lot, it does not help those who hold it wide open for miles and miles, in fact it will hurt your mileage and will wear out your motor faster than without those lightweight parts. The total mass (weight in crude terms) of the moving trans parts is perhaps the most overlooked, underestimated, often misunderstood portion of the bike. A bike setup that almost mandates the need for lightweight trans parts are those who are using chamber pipes, mostly due to its powerful “spikey” power curve which often results in a huge kick when the pipe’s powerband is reached.

This skews off a little but I wanted to add in why clutch springs (not to be confused for the center spring) acts differently in heavy, medium and light clutches. A heavy clutch has moving parts that are higher in mass, which means when it spins it’s going to want to open up and touch the clutch bell surface more eagerly than a clutch using ultra light moving parts. This means you could use a green polini clutch spring in a heavy and light clutch and it’ll seem like the clutch is engaging sooner with the heavy clutch than the light clutch.


My latest project 1998 Honda Elite SA50P, here’s how she’s coming along 8) Goals are to cruise 45mph 50mph dowhill with decent acceleration and get 70 or more mpg, all with stock 50cc bore.

Before: (CLICK pic for slideshow)

In Progress: (CLICK pic for slideshow)

Stage1 Includes following:

YMS exhaust
Upjetted carb, richened main, cut uni foam
Oil pump wired full open
BR8HSA sparkplug
Malossi carbon fiber reed
OKO variator -tuning
1.5k center spring
2k jog grab springs
7.4:1 gearing (NOT ratio I requested..)
Shinko 3.00-10 tires
EBC pads in rear

Superbike Sportbike grips
new levers and mounts (thanks evilone)
Taiwan metro mirrors
Custom DAC speedo overlay
Rims painted gloss black
billet bronze stemp caps
Degreased case
Panels cleaned up
Decals removed

Stage1 Complete: (CLICK pic for slideshow)

Here some pics of me at a local scooter rally held by the shop I work at every year called the Spring Fling. We usually have about 100+ scooters show, lotsa fun 🙂

Ya I know, I look dorky as hell haha 😛

With my Yamaha Jog and other jog style bikes now sold, I will be focusing more on Dio-style Honda builds. For some quick background on this scooter platform check out THIS link, in a nutshell ’94 and up 50cc Honda Elites have a huge aftermarket for performance and personally an absolute joy to work on. I like them so much, I now own 3 of them 🙂

First off I’d like to recap on my 2001 Honda Elite SR50. I was lucky enough to find this one locally in CHERRY condition (very clean, no cracks or scratches). It had around 5,000 stock ridden miles and was garage kept its entire life, with clear title and single owner. I picked it up non-running for $400 and began planning its future mad scientist style 8)

I got it running very shortly after with just a new set of rings from Honda ($30) but the stock unrestricted performance, while very peppy, at only 35mph top speed wasn’t going to cut it for my 30mile commute.

To find out what happened next, see “How to build a fast Elite!”

It is now my daily driver, nearing 10,000 total miles (half of them fully modded) and cruising at speeds of up to 75mph, gps verified. It has been one of my favorite and most satisfying scooter projects to date.

Click pic for a Slideshow

Here is the LAST piece of my Jog adventure, and the HEART of my build: Custom ported 47mm cylinder by StepVino

It is in excellent shape with just slight score marks, but plenty of life left. This is a great cylinder for anyone with a mid-race to full race chambered exhaust that can rev to 11-12k+ rpm. Managed 70.7mph with a 17mm carb and tecnigas RS on my setup with 8:1 gearing without hitting the full powerband! Should be good for near 80mph with a nice pipe.